15 Best Things to Experience at Abol Tabol Para: North Kolkata’s Artistic Goli
I am standing in the heart of Hatibagan, North Kolkata, staring at a giant, whimsical sketch of 'Kumro Potash' painted across the facade of an old residential building. This is Abol Tabol Para, a narrow stretch along Nalin Sarkar Street and Ganendra Mitra Lane that has permanently transformed from a quiet neighbourhood into a living, breathing canvas of Sukumar Ray’s iconic nonsense rhymes. If you are looking for the perfect blend of Bengali literature, heritage architecture, and a wildly aesthetic street walk in 2026, this is exactly where you need to be.
As an explorer constantly wandering through the alleys of this city, I have seen many places change, but the story of abol tabol kolkata is unlike any other. It is a brilliant example of how temporary festival art can evolve into a permanent cultural landmark. Here is everything you need to know about exploring this magical street, the history behind its creation, and why it has become an absolute must-visit spot on the Kolkata map.
The Origin Story: From Pujo Pandal to Permanent Heritage
To understand the magic of Abol Tabol Para, we have to rewind to the autumn of 2023. In Kolkata, Durga Pujo is not just a religious festival; it is the world’s largest public art exhibition. That year, the Hatibagan Nabin Pally Durga Pujo committee decided to celebrate the centenary of Sukumar Ray’s legendary book of nonsense verse, Abol Tabol.
Instead of just building a temporary pandal, the organisers and local residents did something extraordinary. They whitewashed the buildings of their entire neighbourhood and painted them with bold, black-outlined illustrations of Sukumar Ray’s characters. The rhymes were played through sound systems, and the entire goli (alley) was transported into a world of literary fantasy.
Usually, when the Pujo ends, the art is dismantled. But the response to this theme was so overwhelming that the residents of Hatibagan decided to keep it. The weather-proof paint stayed, and the neighbourhood officially earned its new moniker: Abol Tabol Para. Today, it stands as a testament to the city’s profound respect for literature and public art.
Decoding the Art: Characters You Will Meet
Walking through this street feels like stepping directly into the pages of a 100-year-old book. Sukumar Ray, the father of Oscar-winning filmmaker Satyajit Ray, was a genius of satire and nonsense literature. His creations were wildly imaginative, often reflecting the socio-political climate of colonial India through the lens of pure absurdity.
As you stroll down the lane, keep your eyes peeled for these iconic characters adorning the walls, balconies, and doorways:
Kumro Potash (The Pumpkin-Puff): A hilarious, dictatorial figure shaped like a pumpkin, demanding absurd obedience from everyone around him.
Tyansh Goru (The Anglicised Cow): A satirical take on Bengalis who blindly imitated Western culture during the British Raj.
Ramgorurer Chhana: The legendary miserable creatures who strictly forbid any form of laughter or joy.
Hnukumukho Hyangla: The perpetually confused creature who can never make up his mind.
Bombagorer Raja (The King of Bombagore): The eccentric ruler of a bizarre land where picture frames are fried and people keep mangoes in their pockets.
The visual aesthetic is striking. The stark white background with thick, black line art mimics the original woodcut illustrations from the first edition of the book. It provides a phenomenal contrast against the blue Kolkata sky and the rustic green shutters of the old North Kolkata houses.
Why is Abol Tabol Kolkata So Important?
You might wonder why a street painted with children's rhymes holds so much weight in 2026. The answer lies in the deeply rooted nostalgia of the Bengali soul. Every Bengali child grows up reciting Abol Tabol. These poems are passed down through generations, serving as our first introduction to rhythm, humour, and satire.
By transforming a physical space into a tribute to this literature, Abol Tabol Para does something vital: it bridges the gap between the past and the present. In an era dominated by digital screens, this physical space invites people to walk, touch, and engage with their heritage. It is also a massive win for the city's urban aesthetics, proving that street art in Kolkata can go beyond political graffiti and into the realm of storytelling.
Furthermore, this area is located right next to the historic "Theatre Para" of North Kolkata. Just a stone's throw away from Raja Rajkrishna Street, this area was once the epicentre of Bengali commercial theatre, home to legendary halls like the Star Theatre, Sarcarina, and Rangana. Abol Tabol Para effectively revives the artistic pulse of a neighbourhood that has been the cultural heart of the city for over a century.
The Ultimate Petuk’s Guide: Food and Mishti Near Abol Tabol Para
No exploration in Kolkata is complete without addressing the inner Petuk (foodie). Exploring the lanes of North Kolkata requires energy, and thankfully, Hatibagan is a culinary paradise.
After you have taken your photos and admired the art, step out onto the main roads of Hatibagan and Shyambazar. For a true-blue Bengali experience, head to the legendary sweet shops in the vicinity. You cannot leave the area without trying some authentic Mishti. Stop by a local sweet shop for a warm, syrupy Rosogolla or a classic Jolbhara Sondesh.
If you are craving something savoury, the street food around the Hatibagan intersection is unparalleled. From crispy Telebhaja (fritters) to the legendary Kolkata Kathi Rolls, the options are endless. Grab a Kochuri and Aloor Dom from a roadside vendor—it is the ultimate comfort food that perfectly complements a morning of exploring.
Experience the Local Bajar and Adda Culture
To truly absorb the essence of this neighbourhood, you need to slow down and embrace the local lingo and lifestyle. Hatibagan is famous for its bustling Bazar (market). It is one of the oldest and most vibrant traditional markets in the city. The chaotic symphony of vendors selling everything from fresh vegetables to handloom sarees is an experience in itself.
After navigating the Bajar, find a nearby tea stall. The Adda (intellectual exchange and casual conversation) culture is the lifeblood of Kolkata. Order a "bhanr" (clay cup) of steaming cardamom tea, take a seat on a wooden bench, and just listen. You will hear heated debates about football, politics, and cinema. This is the authentic pulse of the city, perfectly complementing the artistic silence of Abol Tabol Para just a few streets away.
Photography and Styling Tips for 2026
Abol Tabol Para is arguably one of the most Instagrammable spots in the city right now. If you want to capture the essence of this place without dealing with massive crowds, here are a few tips:
Golden Hour is Your Friend: Visit early in the morning (around 7:00 AM to 8:30 AM). Not only is the lighting soft and perfect for photography, but the streets are also relatively empty, allowing you to get clean, uninterrupted shots of the murals.
Wardrobe Choices: Since the murals are stark black and white, wearing solid, vibrant colours—like a deep red Kurta, a bright yellow Saree, or a vivid blue dress—will make you pop beautifully against the background.
Respect the Residents: Remember that this is a residential area. People live inside these painted houses. While taking photos, be mindful of their privacy, keep your voice down, and do not block doorways.
How to Reach and Explore
Getting to Abol Tabol Para is incredibly straightforward, making it an easy addition to any weekend itinerary.
By Metro: This is the most convenient way to travel. Take the Blue Line of the Kolkata Metro and get off at the Sovabazar Sutanuti station. From the metro gate, it is a brief, 10-minute walk towards the Hatibagan crossing. Ask any local for "Nalin Sarkar Street Pujo math" or directly ask for Abol Tabol Goli, and they will point you in the right direction.
By Bus: Almost all buses travelling through North Kolkata pass by the Hatibagan or Shyambazar five-point crossing. Get off at the Hatibagan stoppage and walk down Aurobindo Sarani to find the lane.
Exploring abol tabol kolkata is more than just a sightseeing trip; it is a journey into the nostalgic soul of the city. It showcases how a community can come together to celebrate art, preserve literature, and create a space that welcomes everyone. Whether you are a literature enthusiast, a street photographer, a history buff, or just a curious traveller, this narrow alley in Hatibagan has a story to tell you.
The next time you find yourself wandering through North Kolkata, take a detour into Abol Tabol Para. Look up at the smiling, ridiculous faces of Sukumar Ray’s imagination, let out a laugh, and appreciate the quirky, beautiful spirit of this city.
