Breakfast in Tiretti: Is the Chinese Breakfast Still Worth it in 2026?

Kolkata Tales
10 Feb, 2026


If you are a true Kolkatan, you know our love for food doesn’t wait for lunch. It starts when the mist hangs low over the Hooghly. It is 2026, the city has changed, the Metro lines have expanded, and new cafes pop up in Park Street every week. But amid the noise of the new, does the silence of Old Chinatown still hold its magic?  

We are talking about the legendary Chinese Breakfast in Tiretti Bazar.  

For decades, this narrow lane near Poddar Court has been a pilgrimage site for foodies, early risers, and anyone craving authentic Chinese breakfast Kolkata style. But lately, whispers have floated around the Adda circles. "Is the quality dropping?" "Are the stalls disappearing?" 
Today, I’m putting on my detective hat and my loosest pants to give you the honest, updated reality of Tiretti Bazar in 2026.

The "Cheena Para" Connection  

Before we get to the dumplings, let’s appreciate the heritage. Tiretti Bazar isn’t just a street food market; it is a living museum. This area was once the heart of the Chinese community that immigrated to Calcutta in the late 18th century, long before Tangra became the "new" Chinatown.
Named after Edward Tiretta, an Italian architect who worked for the East India Company, this market became the hub for the Cantonese community. The breakfast you eat here today comes from that legacy—recipes passed down from grandmothers who used to feed the dock workers and tanners of the 1900s.
Did you know? The Nanking Restaurant nearby, now in ruins, was once the place where Bollywood stars like Dilip Kumar would dine. The history is in the very air you breathe here.

Tiretti Bazar Breakfast Timing 2026: Don't Hit Snooze  

This is the most important part of this blog. If you miss the timing, you miss the magic.  

  • Official Timing: 5:00 AM to 8:30 AM  
  • Peak "Vibe" Time: 6:30 AM to 7:15 AM  
  • The "Danger Zone": After 8:00 AM (Food runs out, fish sellers take over).  
  • Best Day to Visit: Sunday breakfast spots in Kolkata always lead here because Sundays are when every stall is open. Weekdays are quieter, with only about 40% of the stalls open.  
  • The 2026 Update: The crowd has come back in full force after the pandemic. If you want the famous Fish Ball Soup without a struggle, try to arrive by 6:15 AM.

What to Eat (The "Petuk" Guide)  

So, you woke up early. What should you eat? Here’s a look at the dumplings Kolkata loves:

1. Fish Ball Soup (The Holy Grail)  
This is a must-have. It features a clear, light broth filled with handmade fish balls that are springy, not rubbery, and subtle. It usually comes with spring onions and a sprinkle of pepper.  
Taste Profile: Clean, umami, soul-warming.  

2. Pork Bao (Tai Pao)  
These are big, fluffy steamed buns filled with a sweet and savory pork mixture. In 2026, finding the authentic "stickiness" in the dough is rare, but the old aunties at Tiretti still get it right.  

3. Siu Mai (Shumai)  
Forget the street-side "chicken momo." These are open-faced dumplings, usually with pork or chicken, wrapped in thin yellow dough. They are meatier and denser than your average momo.  

4. Fried Wontons (Singhara Chow)  
Locals often call these "Chinese Samosas." They are crisp, deep-fried, and filled with minced meat. They are perfect for dipping in the spicy red sauce.  

5. Chinese Sausages (Lap Cheong)  
You will find strings of red, dried sausages hanging at some stalls. These are sweet, fatty, and cured. Pro Tip: Buy a packet to take home. Fry them with fried rice—it changes everything.  

Meet the Legends: Famous Stalls & Owners  

The heart of Tiretti lies in its people. Many younger folks have moved abroad or to Tangra, but a few guardians still remain.  
  • The Soup Lady (Near the Temple): People often call her Mrs. Wong or just "Aunty." She has served fish ball soup for decades. She may seem strict, but she offers the hottest broth.  
  • Bobby’s Stall: Look for the crowd. Bobby is well-known for Sui Mai and specialized dumplings.  
  • D’Ley Restaurant: Located nearby (not a street stall), D'Ley is the place to go if you arrive late and want a sit-down Chinese breakfast. They are famous for their pork chops and noodle soup.  
  • Pou Chong Brothers: Just around the corner is the famous Pou Chong sauce factory. It isn’t a breakfast stall, but you should visit to buy their Green Chilli Sauce and Soy Sauce. It captures the taste of Kolkata Chinese in a bottle.  

Is it Still Worth it in 2026?  

The Cons:
  • Hygiene: It is a street market. It is messy. If you are very particular about hygiene, this could be a challenge.
  • Crowd: On winter Sundays, it can get chaotic.
  • Consistency: Some days the broth is magical; other days, it might feel a bit watered down.
The Pros:
  • The Vibe: Nowhere else in India can you stand on a colonial street, surrounded by Chinese temples, eating pork buns at sunrise.
  • The Authenticity: The flavors are subtle, not the "Chilli Chicken" spice bomb we are used to. It is Cantonese home cooking.
  • The Price: A hearty meal for under ₹200.
YES. Tiretti Bazar is absolutely worth it in 2026. Not just for the food, but to keep a dying tradition alive. Every bowl of soup you buy supports the last remaining families of Old Chinatown. It is a slice of history that is slowly fading; go while you still can.


Location & Pro Tips  

Address: Sun Yat Sen Street, near Poddar Court, Tiretti, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012.  
How to Reach:  
  • Metro: Get off at Central Metro Station. It’s a 5-minute walk from there.  
  • Cab: Ask for "Poddar Court" or "Tiretti Bazar."
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